Runway Looks, Lolita Style: Anna Sui

Images via Fashionista.com

Those who’ve passed by this blog, knows I have a soft spot for Anna Sui. And this collection also touches the Lolita fashion part of my heart. According to CBS, she was inspired by the Post-Napoleonic Era and Madeleine Castaing, a 50’s interior decorator.

For those unfamiliar with Lolita Fashion, which also inspired by French Rococo period, there’s sure to be some inspiration drawn from Japanese fashion as well.  Anna Sui was known to add her love of punk into her collections, so we’ll also explore a bit into Punk Lolita.

Leather and Lace.

Unlike other styles, Punk Lolita is a bit looser when it comes to the Lolita silhouette which allows more room for the punk to punch it’s way through with steel-toed shoes.

Putumayo anyone?

This spring collection is the first I’ve seen with which one could draw Lolita inspiration from. And not because of the cat ears.

Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette

The mismatch use of bold  and chiascuro use of colors at first do not go together, they somehow all work. I liked her use of lavender, teal, and pink wigs to bring out the bright colors of the clothes.

JSK: h. Naoto Frill “Melting Macaron”
Blouse: Thrifted in Hong Kong
Hat: Bodyline

 h.Naoto is a familar brand most associated with visual-kei, Punk, and Lolita fashion. h.Naoto Frill is classified under the Lolita branch of the brand. The jumperskirt reminds me alot of Miss Havisham’s cobwebbed cakes– true to the name of the “Melting Macaron” print.

Runway Style, Lolita Style: Thom Browne

Images via Fashionista

When it comes to choosing designers for this series, I try to choose designers that I fit with my own aesthetic and style. Thom Browne is no execption. His designs are known to fall under a very preppy style but always with a twist.

This spring collection reminded a lot of the book The Night Circus by Erin Morgensten. The book is about a circus, a duel, and a love story wrapped in one. Keeping in mind The Night Circus has a strict uniform of black and white, which is what attracted me to Thom Browne. 

The Woman in Black

To add confusion and make your head spin there were dancers in the background atop black and white spinners. Which makes me wonder if I was hypnotized to like this collection.

Laser cutting moves into clothing.

And when he knew you had enough, he added a splashes of color at the end.

Candy-striped Cage Skirt.

Thom Browne’s collection leaves you unsure whether they are clothes or costumes. If you are into fashion you probably known that it is clearly a fashion statement.

Alot like Lolita. There are vast misconceptions to people who are unfamiliar with the fashion that it is a costume. Often you have “It isn’t Halloween yet!” as a catcall.

I decided to stick with a monochrome palette pairing a Beth by Victorian Maiden jumperskirt, with an H&M blouse.  The small dot pattern on the dress complement the unending stripes (but I think even if they were larger it wouldn’t make a difference). And the more I look at it, my head actually is reeling at the fact it does all fit somehow.

Jumperskirt: Beth by Victorian Maiden
Blouse: H&M

With a black bowler hat and black and white striped socks, I think it would add a nice touch and be an excellent outfit to use for Dances of Vice: PhantasmaGorey don’t you think?

Runway Looks, Lolita Style: Peter Som

Images via Fashionista.com

Jumping on the Peter Som bandwagon because of his use of florals. The collection reminded me of a gradual sunrise. I chose Peter Som because of fashionista’s description. He’s know for unusual color combinations but catches you unassumingly by starting off the show with classic spring colors to his usual pop and then back to a mixture of the two.

He’s made sure to make the audience focus on the models as well as the clothes with a very bright eyeshadow — making cream-colored pieces stand out and adding a finishing touch to pieces that already pop.

Which is why it reminds me of a the daily movement of the sun was they way he present the entire collection. Each sunrise is different and you never really notice the changing colors of the sky until it passes you by.

It started out with classic creams and florals.

Then there was this blue piece. If you’ve ever seen the sun rise there is a gradual grey to brilliant blue gradient. It literally is a split second before it quickly changes.

That eventually becomes orange.

And then beige to welcome the day.

Blouse: Vintage
Skirt: Antique Bouquet
Scarf: Primark

For a Lolita this attracted me because my personal style tends to reflect his aesthetic. Especially when it comes to matching things that should not match. Or too matchy.  I like experiment with Lolita brands and prints beyond a classic color palette (i.e. white blouse with pastel skirt; black blouse with black jumperskirt) In this case I paired a floral vintage shirt, Metamorphose floral skirt, and a blue floral scarf for an over abundance of flowers.

Runway Looks, Lolita Style – Ralph Lauren

Images via NYMAG

Ralph Lauren is sophisticated, clean, and European. So I suppose it’s know no wonder why he decided to use the theme to Downtown Abbey for his runway music (which I’m now desperately trying to find the video of).

Even without the video I can imagine the collection fitting with the music nicely what with the tweed and wool and lots of use of hats.

Anachronistic motorcyle outfits make a periodic outfit modern.

And I do love his use of menswear as womenswear.

A night at the opera or smoking lounge?

Periodic fashion is one of the core inspirations for Lolita.  Plus I love vintage, so this coordinate is inspired by a growing collection of vintage items.

Cloche from Strawberry – $25
Vintage jacket – $20
Vintage scarf – $10
Victorian Maiden blouse – $209
Metamorphose Tweed skirt – $100

Runway Looks, Lolita Style – Zac Posen

Images via NYMAG

Asian inspirations seems to be an ongoing theme. Zac Posen focused on Japan with dresses with stiff styled obis, folds and incorporated it into the more fitted looks he’s known for.

I’m a big sucker for Asian styled prints, and Posen uses peonies a bit.

Peonies symbolizes riches.

With the model’s hair styled in a slick bun with stiff swallowtail-like feather accents, Zac Posen made you feel like it was pre-war Japan.

Peekaboo shoulder sleeves suit her.

 
Unlike Jason Wu, I’m not going straight to a Wa-Lolita outfit. Instead I took kimono-like tops and layered them with a Chained Bouquet skirt.  The emerald green jacket plays off the jewel-tone colors I’m seeing in a lot of the collections.

Emerald Green Jacket – $10
Kimono shirt – $10
Kimono black sheer blouse – $60
Baby, the Stars Shine Bright Chained Bouquet Skirt (red) – $80

Runway Looks, Lolita Style – Ruffian

Images via NY Mag

Lolitas should look towards Ruffian. There design concept is very Victoriana and very vintage (not retro) chic. And lots of tweed and wool.

I like this collection because it harkens to Sam Spade movies and the mysterious woman looking for a detective to solve her mystery.

Leather and tweed really sells the outfit. But the blue fedora takes the cake.

I’ll be honest Ruffian’s fall collection is an excuse for me to post outfits with fedoras.  However the outfits are stunning and I’m attracted to ready-to-wear that fits my personal style (not neccessarily Lolita, but works both way the same).

This coordinate was inspired by Ruffian’s ability to use one item to make the whole outfit pop – whether it is a gold belt on a all blue outfit or bright blue fedora on an all black outfit.

Bodyline heart jacket – $50
Mastina Blouse (from Hong Kong) – $10

Metamorphose Tweed skirt – $100
Angora fedora – $20

Runway Looks, Lolita Style – Jason Wu

Fu (Wu)Manchu – Images via New York Magazine.

If you are unfamiliar with Jason Wu, he is one of the designers that Michelle Obama often wears. Also his collaboration collection with Target just came out and sold out (to the extent that a Florida couple bought the entire stock).

His designs are often very simple, but statement-worthy.  Originally I had planned to do a piece on Rag and Bone with their gradient hues, but I was blown away by Wu’s designs and the strong influence of Chinese royal regalia and Forbidden City (the entrance doors were inspired by palace doors!).

While most people may not understand the history symbolism behind it all, people can harken back to the pop culture archetypes of Fu Manchu (played by Christopher Lee no less!) and the infamous “dragon lady” (a sexy but fiesty Asian woman).

Wu’s power suit for the typical dragon lady.

As an Asian-American, it’s hard to embrace your culture without being a typical stereotype. It’s often like going uphill on a down escalator. Eventually you just have to accept your culture and incorporate it into your life.  Wu’s designs are solely him as a fashion designer and him showing his Chinese pride.

Maroon is definitely a color to use for fall.

Lolita fashion is all about breaking stereotypes, as well as embracing them. Qi-Lolita is a style that is influenced by the Chinese cheongsaam. A cheongsaam is a fitted silk dress with slits at the side with a mandarin-styled collar. It was developed in the 1920s and has become iconic with Chinese culture. 

Cheongsaam/Qi Pao whatever you call it, it’s still fashion

Incoporating cultural elements and Lolita is very difficult. Done right, Qi-Lolita (based on the qipao; not to be confused with Wa-Lolita, which is based on the kimono) can be very cute.  Kidsyoyo’s design one of the tasteful versions I’ve seen that’s wearable as fashion, and not totally seen as a costume. This style comes in red and black (a popular color combo in general for the original style) or pink and brown.

Always Lolita.

Runway Looks, Lolita Style – Richard Chai

via NY Magazine

New York Fashion week started today. And like a fashionable New Yorker I’m ecstatic to know the trends for fall be. Unfortunately since I’m not one of the elite, I’ll be watching via Youtube, NYTimes Style section, and New York Magazine. 

Taking it one step further, expect to see recreated looks from collections that could easily be translated into Lolita fashion.

First up Richard Chai. Sleek, Sophisticated with a corporate, but playful touch.

Outfit could be easily incorporated in Lolita

Chai’s collection featured alot of stripes and toned down colors (gray, blue, blacks, and maroon, lots of maroon) – both of I’m a big fan of and what stood out for me.  Most of all, all of it looks like you could walk off the runway with a good portion of the collection.

Favorite out of the fall collection

“I didn’t want to create looks that were just for the show. I wanted it to be approachable and believable, but also be really aspirational. At the end of the day, it’s pieces that I want people to wear.”

And here’s my own take on the first picture.

Rundown:
Angelic Pretty Classic Regimental (black) pants $180
Gray shirt from TJ Maxx $15
Eggplant corduroy jacket from JCPenney $30

If you’re big into Fashion Week and love creating coordinates feel free to email me at lolitaandthecity (at) gmail (dot) com.  Include a picture of the collection you’re trying to model along with a picture and description of your coordinate (at least one item should be Lolita-related). Also why you chose the designer.

Who knows, it could be featured here!